When we purchased the house some years ago we had all these ideas to make this our home. The fireplace was something we wanted to do, but didn't know quite what it was that it needed. The flipper painted it white using some cheap paint which bubbled up and flaked off after a while causing the red brick to show. We still have to get a chimney sweeper out to inspect the chimney but that will be later- cause im not climbing up in there and ending up in the 6 o'clock news.
From here on out when I use the word we there it was only I doing the work - the Mrs. was doing Mrs' things and occassionally shaking her head. So weekend project number 45 ( I really don't know the number just sounded good) update the fireplace.
We thought about doing a full surround with the decorative column and the mantel, but it would look out of place with our current decore and home design. So I suggested a railroad tie. Now I have seen them done in other homes and they looked really nice. I did some research on them and found a place that was selling them for about 15.00. That was great, however, I kept reading. Why did I think that I could just use something that came from outside and looked good for being over 60 years? Ya' can't. Why? as stated at the start of this railroad ties are carcenogenic, soaked with creosote and other chemicals to protect them from insects and rot, also they are highly flammable - so that's out. The next best thing was to find timber that would resemble a railroad tie. I found a 6"x 6"x 8' timber beam at a local surplus and salvage store for about 10.23 with tax. Always check your salvage yards, they usually have some good stuff at cheap prices. The beam weighed in at about 105lbs yup a two man (woman / woman & man / man & teen ) job. You will need a couple of saw-horses...I got mine from Harbor Frieght for 8.99 + a 20% off coupon. Coupons are always a good thing!!!
There are a few steps that I did not take pictures of and that is the distressing and staining of the beam. If you want the mantel to have knicks, dings, scratches, you can achieve these by using a heave rock, chains, screw drivers basically anything that will scar the surface. Once you have it distressed as you like choose the color stain. I did not paint this beam, but used stain, as stain penetrates the layers of the wood. This will take a few days... so do something in between coats (3-4), make sure you protect the beam incase of rain. While that was being done, we needed to get the flaking paint off. Nothing better to remove paint than a paint scraper. I have no idea what type of cheap paint this was, but I grabbed a corner and about two foot section came right off - hmm. After the fireplace was scraped and the residue removed with a damp cloth, we painted the entire fireplace with paint designed to be used for masonry/brick.
Now since all the touchup has been done, it's time to prep the mantel for mounting. You will need the following:
Measure (starting from the hearth of the fireplace) to find the desired height placement of the mantel. You will want the first mark to be the bottom of the mantel and then measure again to top of the mantel to find the center. Once you have the center marked - draw a line from edge to edge. On this line measure about 6 - 7 inches along the line and mark - these will be your drill points. To secure my mantel I used 5 lag bolts and sleeves positioned at every 10 inches to equally disperse the wieght.
Make sure your drill bit is larger than the lag bolt to adjust for the sleeve insert that needs to be placed in each hole. Make sure you keep the holes level, if you are off higher or lower it will affect the end project. Drill each hole, blow out the debris and dust (oh yeah it will be messy) from the holes and insert the sleeves. The sleeves should fit pretty snug if loose thread the lag nut in the sleeve slightly and then place it in the hole. Using your level, place it on the lag nuts to verify if it is level. Tighten each lag bolt with the ratchet until it is firmly set ( DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN).
Once the lag bolts are secured and tightend, using your angle grinder, cut off the head of each lag bolt. If there are any shards left from the cut, gently grind them out. Measure the length of the proturding lag bolt you will need this to determine your drill depth on the mantel.
Here is a cheat and a great way to get the hole placement right on the back of the mantel. Find a piece of scrap lumber the same width and length of the mantel. Place a daub of paint on the end of each bolt. Grab your friend/wife/neighbor/kid someone to help you with this and the next few steps. With help from your partner, place the board against the lag bolts to mark the positions of the holes. Using the same board clamp it to the back of the mantel, ensure its placement is even on all sides.
Wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit according to the measurment take of the extruding lag bolt - this will be your depth gauge. Once you have all the holes drilled, turn the beam over and give it a few whacks to dislodge any shavings in the holes. Now is a good time to stretch those muscles, hope you been hitting the gym some. With the help of your assistant, do a test fit of the mantel on the lag bolts. Do not attach it all the way - you are just making sure the holes are aligned correctly. Remove the mantel and using the heat resistant caulk, place a liberal amount on either the lag bolt or in the hole in the mantle. The caulk will act as an insulator and protect the mantel from heat when using the fireplace. Take the construction adhesive and place a liberal amount on the backside of the mantel (make a zig-zag pattern). Reposition the mantel on the lag bolts and push it into position. you may need to whack it a few times to get it fully in place. I know I said use a rubber mallet, but for ours we used a 8lbs sledge hammer to knock it in place. Once it is in place, caulk around the sides of the mantle to fill seal any gaps. After about a few hours the construction adhesive should be cured and the mantel firmly fixed in place.
Viola, you have a new decorative mantel that only cost you about $40.00 to do yourself. We continued to improve our fireplace by adding slate tile (Home Depot - $25.00) to our hearth. We have already covered tiling so I won't go back through the steps. The tiling only took an hour to complete and our fireplace project is done. Add some stuff like pictures candles or a clock to cozy up the area.
There are a few steps that I did not take pictures of and that is the distressing and staining of the beam. If you want the mantel to have knicks, dings, scratches, you can achieve these by using a heave rock, chains, screw drivers basically anything that will scar the surface. Once you have it distressed as you like choose the color stain. I did not paint this beam, but used stain, as stain penetrates the layers of the wood. This will take a few days... so do something in between coats (3-4), make sure you protect the beam incase of rain. While that was being done, we needed to get the flaking paint off. Nothing better to remove paint than a paint scraper. I have no idea what type of cheap paint this was, but I grabbed a corner and about two foot section came right off - hmm. After the fireplace was scraped and the residue removed with a damp cloth, we painted the entire fireplace with paint designed to be used for masonry/brick.Now since all the touchup has been done, it's time to prep the mantel for mounting. You will need the following:
- Hammer drill,
- Masonry Bit
- 10" inch lag bolts
- Sleeves
- Masking tape
- Measuring tape
- Steel ruler
- Level
- Construction adhesive
- Ratchet
- Angle grinder w/ cutting wheel
- Heat resistant caulk up to 700 degrees
- Rubber mallet.
Once the lag bolts are secured and tightend, using your angle grinder, cut off the head of each lag bolt. If there are any shards left from the cut, gently grind them out. Measure the length of the proturding lag bolt you will need this to determine your drill depth on the mantel.
Here is a cheat and a great way to get the hole placement right on the back of the mantel. Find a piece of scrap lumber the same width and length of the mantel. Place a daub of paint on the end of each bolt. Grab your friend/wife/neighbor/kid someone to help you with this and the next few steps. With help from your partner, place the board against the lag bolts to mark the positions of the holes. Using the same board clamp it to the back of the mantel, ensure its placement is even on all sides.
Wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit according to the measurment take of the extruding lag bolt - this will be your depth gauge. Once you have all the holes drilled, turn the beam over and give it a few whacks to dislodge any shavings in the holes. Now is a good time to stretch those muscles, hope you been hitting the gym some. With the help of your assistant, do a test fit of the mantel on the lag bolts. Do not attach it all the way - you are just making sure the holes are aligned correctly. Remove the mantel and using the heat resistant caulk, place a liberal amount on either the lag bolt or in the hole in the mantle. The caulk will act as an insulator and protect the mantel from heat when using the fireplace. Take the construction adhesive and place a liberal amount on the backside of the mantel (make a zig-zag pattern). Reposition the mantel on the lag bolts and push it into position. you may need to whack it a few times to get it fully in place. I know I said use a rubber mallet, but for ours we used a 8lbs sledge hammer to knock it in place. Once it is in place, caulk around the sides of the mantle to fill seal any gaps. After about a few hours the construction adhesive should be cured and the mantel firmly fixed in place.
Viola, you have a new decorative mantel that only cost you about $40.00 to do yourself. We continued to improve our fireplace by adding slate tile (Home Depot - $25.00) to our hearth. We have already covered tiling so I won't go back through the steps. The tiling only took an hour to complete and our fireplace project is done. Add some stuff like pictures candles or a clock to cozy up the area.
